One of California’s most whimsical hidden gems is the small beach city of Carmel-by-the-Sea, known simply as “Carmel,” which is famous for its collection of quaint fairy tale cottages. Peek into these neighborhoods for a world that’s not quite our own, where storybook illustrations are rendered into reality among breezy seaside surroundings.
Master builder and designer Hugh Comstock is largely credited with influencing the city’s architectural character. Twenty-one of his storybook homes remain in Carmel to this day, recognizable for their steep gabled roofs, faux beams, multi-pane windows, and lopsided chimneys. Rather than using street addresses, the neighborhood uses an old coordinate system. Read on for everything to know before you visit Carmel, California…
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What’s the history of the fairy tale homes?
In 1924, Hugh Comstock first built the small cottage “Hansel” as a place for his wife to showcase her hand-made doll collection. Later followed “Gretel,” and eventually residents started asking him to design more, resulting in a collection of adorable cottages scattered throughout the town.
The gorgeous homes are not only characterized by their architectural styles, but also for the materials and techniques used to build them. Comstock worked with local chalk rock, hand-carved wood and fixtures, redwood shingles, stucco, and more to achieve organic textures and shapes. During the Great Depression he developed a method of making bitudobe bricks (a mixture of adobe and emulsified asphalt) in order to cut costs.
Comstock’s only creation to house a commercial business is Tuck Box, a small tea room and restaurant. He built the charming cottage in 1927 and it was eventually converted into an English tea room in the 1940s that is still operational today.
In addition to the fairy tale cottages, Comstock was responsible for other local designs including the magical outdoor Forest Theater, which presents family musicals and the Carmel Shakespeare Festival. He also designed the Monterey County Trust & Savings Building in collaboration with his colleague Michael J. Murphy, another master builder of the time who was responsible for over 350 buildings in Carmel.
Remember that except for Tuck Box, these cottages are private residences and should be viewed from the street. Please be respectful and take care to stay outside of the property lines.
What else is special about Carmel?
Carmel has more than a few fun elements that make it stand out from any other coastal town in California.
Perhaps most notably, the village still operates on an old coordinate system, meaning that homes do not have street addresses and are usually referred to by nicknames or landmarks — the City of Carmel gives the example “west side of San Antonio Street, 3 houses south of 12th Avenue.” GPS My City has a map available for a self-guided walking tour, created by Lynn Momboisse from the blog Adventures of a Hometown Tourist.
Not only that, but Carmel still has an antiquated municipal law from 1963 prohibiting people from wearing high heels without a permit. The law specifically bans heels higher than two inches with a base measuring less than one square inch. While the law goes unenforced, visitors can still pick up a permit at City Hall for free if they want a fun souvenir.
The town’s most famous resident is legendary director and actor Clint Eastwood, who actually served as Carmel’s mayor from 1986-1988. Eastwood still owns the historic Mission Ranch hotel and restaurant, which you’ll find just nine blocks south of downtown.
What is there to do in Carmel?
If you’re visiting Carmel to see the fairytale homes, we actually recommend that you don’t over-engineer the trip too much, as part of the fun comes from stumbling across the cottages on your walk. But of course, there are some activities and destinations to seek out while you’re there.
- Carmel Mission – The historic Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo is one of 21 missions in California. It dates back to 1770 and has been fully restored.
- Carmel Beach – Set up a campfire or go for a scenic walk at nearby Carmel Beach, which you’ll find at the end of Ocean Ave.
- Forest Theater – This outdoor community theater presents musicals and festivals in August, September, and October. They let you bring your own picnic and drinks (and we recommend you bring a blanket!).
- Wine tasting – Carmel has nearly 20 wine-tasting rooms packed in one square mile. Download the Carmel-by-the-Sea Wine Walk free mobile guide to get started.
- Art galleries – With almost 100 galleries in one square mile, Carmel is one of the best art destinations in the country.
- Restaurants – You won’t find chain restaurants in Carmel, but there are over 60 great eateries to choose from ranging from casual to fine dining. Across the board, Carmel’s restaurants are known to showcase fresh and local ingredients.
- Shopping – Many visitors to Carmel enjoy a walkable day of shopping during their trip. Most of the shops on and near Ocean Ave are locally owned and operated.
What are the best hotels in Carmel?
If you’re looking to book a room in Carmel, the town has over 40 fantastic hotels to choose from, which you can see listed on the Visit Carmel website. Here are a few of the most highly-rated ones.
- Vagabond’s House Inn – This boutique bed-and-breakfast dates back to the 1920s. Highlights include in-room fireplaces, complimentary wine and cheese, and breakfast delivered to your room.
- Stilwell Hotel – This luxury hotel has a modern coastal design, complimentary light breakfast, and a great location in the heart of Carmel.
- Carriage House Inn – The 45-year-old boutique inn offers 13 rooms with fireplaces and vaulted ceilings, as well as a complimentary wine and hors d’oeuvres service.
- Mission Ranch – While it’s not located in the downtown, we’ll shout out Clint Eastwood’s historic ranch once more as a great novelty experience.
If you’re coming from San Francisco, you can reach Carmel by car in about two hours with no traffic.